Timber Fencing Construction with Resak Wood - Epi. 3

Now that the old chainlink is down, we can move on to constructing the timber fence proper. This is the eventual goal... or something quite similar.
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First, we have to construct the vertical supports for the horizontal strips. These are 1 x 2 inch strips that will stand at 5 feet height above ground level. The first one is straightforward enough, just screw it to the existing steel upright using the holes remaining from the bolts that we painstakingly removed. The old rusty steel upright will eventually get a nice coat of hammerite.
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Reverse view. Why is the wood unvarnished? Because at any one time, you can only paint 3 sides of it. So paint the back and sides first, then varnish the front face after mounting it.
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Now, the 2nd and 3rd uprights don't have the benefit of an existing steel support, so they have to be driven into the ground. I cut these uprights to 7 feet - 5 feet above ground to mount the fence, and 2 feet under for support. Tie a string between the 2 existing steel uprights as a guide.
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Use a spirit level to make sure its vertical on both axes.
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Hammer away, while constantly checking the alignment to make sure they're straight up. I only managed to get them just over 1.5 feet into the ground before hitting something hard, either a concrete bottom or rebar. Anyway, I thought it was firm enough to support the fence.
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Now, after much banging, you'll probably be left with some freeplay around the base of the wooden uprights. Just pack the gaps with cement, and water the ground liberally. Make a final check with the spirit level before letting it set.
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2 energy saving bulbs:

Fu said...

Dude... my RM0.02 worth:
1. the vertical members should be thicker and wider so that they are sturdy. they are, afterall, what's holding the rest of the fence up. what i'm worried about is that subject to the weight of the whole thing, and weather, the vertical supports would bend in time. unless you used cengal wood. the one with the existing steel angle is safe, though.
2. driving them into the ground is fine, but having concrete stumps would be better. opt for brick-built footing and pour concrete into footing if you don't wanna dig up a hole and put concrete in there.
3. having the structural members set in the ground, try assembling the horizontal members separately, i.e it lying down flat on the ground. the gravity will work with you as opposed to installing them on the standing members. you can set a framework to hold the horizontal members together and then install the entire piece as a whole, onto the standing members. use steel brackets and bolts where needed.

just a suggestion, your way works too. :)

trickmycrib said...

Come on Fu, international architect's advice can't be worth RM0.02 only can it?
I'll keep all those in mind for the next time around. Got another fence to build at the back of the house. For now I'm already too far along this project to start over. We'll see how it holds up lah, and take remedial action if necessary.

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